Boston's Best Irish Music

Given the prominence of the Irish-American community in Boston, it is no surprise that there are a number of pubs offering traditional Irish music. So what makes these places so special? Well, let's just point out that craic (yes, that's pronounced 'crack') is the Irish word for fun. Craic agus ceol is fun and music. And while there is no substitute for being back in County Clare enjoying a pint with a plaintive uilleann pipe playing in the corner, these pubs that host Irish seisiúns will give you a head start in your out of body experience to auld Ireland. Or at the very least, they'll give you both craic and ceol.

Most Irish pubs have live acts at least on the weekends, but the ones listed below attract the best acts and the most knowledgeable audiences, making them more than a good place for pint.

• The Burren
  247 Elm Street
  Davis Square
  Somerville
  617-776-6896
  
  On the western rim of Ireland, the Burren -- a vast, bizarre conglomeration of sheet-like rocks and rare foliage -- sits around the heart of the area that has long been considered the best for traditional Irish music. It's no coincidence, then, that the most authentic and enjoyable place to see Irish music in Boston is also called the Burren (sorry, no rock formations here).
  
  Everything about the Burren (pronounced somewhere between burr-in and burn) feels intensely real. Mostly because it's pleasant and comfortable, but its not too cushy. Americans tend to think of Irish pubs like ski lodges, all burning hearths and down pillows, but the Burren is an ideal mix of rowdiness, jollity, and charm. The wooden benches and stained tables, the darkened room with lots of seats that feel out of the way, and the friendly staff all combine to make an excellent place to watch some live music.
  
  A place to watch music, of course, doesn't mean too much without the music itself, and the Burren draws some of the best Irish performers in the area or the world. Some are touring guest stars from Ireland, others live in Boston and play regularly at the Burren. Either way, the quality is sure not to let you down. There's music seven days a week, starting normally at 10 PM. For bigger events the acts play in the "back room." Call to see what's on tap that night (besides the savory Guinness), and then head over for a great evening on the town.
  
  The Burren is in Somerville, near the Davis Square 'T' station on the Red Line. Remember that the 'T' stops running at around 12:30 PM, but the party at the Burren runs much later, so don't get stranded.

• Tir na nOg
  336A Somerville Avenue
  Union Square
  Somerville
  617-628-4300
  
  Song is traditionally close to the Irishman's heart. And that heart can be quickly satisfied at the small yet boisterous Tir na nÓg (pronounced teer na noag, meaning "the Land of Ever Young").
  
  This is no ordinary place. The first thing that strikes you is the humble size of the Tir na nÓg. It holds no more than 10 bar tables (and those are a tight fit at that), and the stage is really more like an overturned box in the corner. The next thing you will notice is the reverential but wholly enthusiastic crowd that usually crams in to see the live acts. They clearly know what a good thing is going on in front of them, and they are quick to sing-along or shut up depending on the moment.
  
  Occasionally during the week, Tir na nÓg features a jazz band or a folk singer, but the music on Friday and Saturday nights (usually featuring one of the owners, Patsy Whelan) is the main attraction, although the Irish seisiúns on Sunday are good for some fun as well.
  
  Getting to the Tir na nÓg is a bit of a hassle unless you have a car. You can take the Red Line to the Porter Square 'T' stop and it is about a 20-25 minute walk down Somerville Avenue from there. Or you can catch the 85, 86, 87, or 91 bus to Union Square.

Other Options

If you can't make it out to Somerville, you might try the Black Rose near Faneuil Hall at 160 State Street (617-742-2286). The Black Rose is a loud, popular place that tends to be populated by many tourists. But, it keeps a certain air of genuineness. Plus, they book some good musical acts and the crowd is certainly enthusiastic. The food is moderately priced and not too shabby. It's the only place listed in this article where you can hear The Wild Rover played with a straight face.

The Druid at 1357 Cambridge Street (617-497-0965) offers an enjoyable, arty place for a pint and an excellent seisiún on Sunday afternoon. We especially recommend the authentic Irish breakfast. Get off at the Central Square 'T' stop and walk ten minutes to Inman Square.

The Phoenix Landing, in Central Square (617-576-6260), sometimes has somewhat eclectic Irish music on Fridays and Saturdays. Call ahead to see what's playing.

What to learn more about other places to soak up the Irish atmosphere? Check out our write-up on Boston's best Irish pubs.

by Brendon Hanley

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