Boston's Best Irish Pubs

Boston and the Irish: one can get sick of the connection, you know? Walking the streets of the city, one is likely to see more tri-colors and Irish pubs than in Dublin. And it will seem like every one of those pubs is legally committed to have at least one Irish barman, one "Irish Writers" poster, and one U2 CD on the premises at all times.

Thankfully, though, in Boston there are definitely two types of Irish pubs. There are the ones with neon shamrock Budweiser signs in the front window showing Monday Night Football on the big screen TV to a bunch of college guys with Fightin' Irish tattoos on their calves. They have Guinness on tap and they draw big crowds, but they have as much to with an Irish pub as they do with a Japanese garden.

And then there are the places where after your first or second pint of Guinness, you'll swear you are across the ocean taking a break from an afternoon rain. Most are dark, smoky, and filled with Irish patrons discussing distinctly un-American topics like the all-Ireland hurling final, the SDLP, or the smell of burning turf.

To get an legitimate taste of the Emerald Isle start out at these places:

The Littlest Bar
47 Province Street
617-523-9766

When they say little, they mean it. It's also below street level. Personally, I think it's an old bomb shelter. But, I assure you these are endearing qualities. The Lilliputian size (a maximum of 38 people are licensed to drink here) makes meeting and greeting -- a favorite Irish pastime -- almost a necessity. It also fosters a tremendous, lively atmosphere. Spontaneous song (no dancing for obvious reasons) is no stranger to this place, while quiet pints just may be.

The Littlest Bar isn't the most "Irish" place in décor or tradition, but its soul is in the right place. The craic (the Irish word for fun) is authentic, as is the tasty Guinness. And the friendliness this place exudes gives stock to their ads, which utilize the famous Cheers slogan, "where everybody knows your name."

It's location is also excellent for the traveler who needs a break away from the tourist rush. It is just off the Freedom Trail near King's Chapel, and close to the Park Street, Downtown Crossing, and Government Center 'T' stops. They're open from 8:30 AM to 1:30 AM.

The Plough and Stars
912 Massachusetts Avenue
617-492-9653

As they would say in Ireland, this place is brilliant. During the day and early evening, the Plough is home to an eclectic mix of interesting Cambridge types in need of refreshments. As the hour gets later, the crowd gets younger, and the pulse of this corner pub quickens. But no matter how loud or crowded it gets, its friendly, chatty character never deserts the Plough.

There are bands most nights and it does tend to get cramped, so get there early for a seat. For my money, the best time to enjoy the Plough's exquisite Guinness is Saturday or Sunday in the early afternoons, when they show English soccer matches on TV. The relatively modest cover would never discourage me from soaking up the passion and the sense of community that the televised sport creates.

To get to the Plough and Stars get off the red line at Central Square and head down Massachusetts toward Harvard Square.

The Irish Embassy Pub
234 Friend Street
617-742-6618

The Irish Embassy can be the closest thing to Ireland around. Unfortunately, it can also resemble any other pick-up, boogie joint in town.

Obviously then, when you go is the key to enjoying the comforts of this pub. Try to avoid it on weekend nights or after Celtics or Bruins games. That's a tall task in the winter, I know, but mixing with the hordes of inebriated bar crawlers after a game is not the most fun in the world. A poster that DJ Somebody is playing may be another clue to head somewhere else for the night.

But, certainly do sample the gritty interior of the Embassy during the day and on nights during the week. They also show English soccer matches on TV Saturdays and Sundays. There is a cover charge, but the raucous expatriate crowd (and the soccer) is worth the fee.

The Irish Embassy is across the street from the North Station 'T' stop.

The Brendan Behan Pub
378 Centre Street
617-522-5386

Doyle's Cafe
3484 Washington Street
617-524-2345

Doyle's and The Brendan Behan are both in Jamaica Plain, a bit of a southeastern trek from town. If you don't have a car, take the Green Line 'E' to its last stop and then catch bus #39. If you are going with a few people it's easier to split the cab fair.

Once you make it to The Brendan Behan, you will immediately get the feel of great neighborhood hangout. The bar and the wooden booths are dark and comfortable. The conversation and the smoke hangs heavy in the air. Heck, there's even an aquarium (and what a nasty wee thing it is). This is one comfortable little place. Bands of various qualities and genres play literally from the corner Saturday through Tuesday. Admirably, there is never a cover charge. There are also occasional readings from Irish authors.

In contrast to the homey charm of The Behan is the political institution known as Doyle's. Presidents, Senators, and the like have "graced" the glasses at this airy pub. Of course none of that makes any difference to the pint in front of you (unless of course you're seated in the disquieting Kennedy room), and Doyle's stands on its own despite the supercilious governmental pretensions. If only they could remember that.

Other Suggestions
Other pubs of note that you might duck into include the elegant Grand Canal (57 Canal Street, 617-523-1112), which combines premium food, excellent Guinness, and gorgeous surroundings into a "clean, well-lighted place." It's between the Haymarket 'T' stop and the Fleet Center. Also downtown, Mr. Dooley's Tavern (77 Broad Street, 617-338-5656) is a nice place for a quiet pint when the pub noise gets to be too much. And if you're out in the Allston/Brighton area, try a different sort of Irish bar, The Kells (161 Brighton Avenue, 617-782-9082). You can disco with local expatriates and college students all night long if you like. And of course, if you are especially interested in all things Irish, be sure to see our write-up of the best spots in Boston to hear Irish music.

by Brendon Hanley

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