Antiquing in Essex

Unfinished ice chests and hand-painted cradles, fine ancient china and old silver ladles, history bound up in gold heirloom rings... If these are a few of your favorite things, then you will be right at home in the quaint coastal community of Essex, Massachusetts.

Located 30 miles from Boston on the North Shore's Cape Ann, Essex is best known for its 35-plus antique shops and galleries. Novice antiquers and connoisseurs alike come to the area for the variety of wares its stores have to offer, confident that they will find a special item or two to take home. A day in Essex can be all about finding that long-sought-after colonial chest of drawers, or it simply can be about slowing down a little to catch a glimpse of life in a quiet, picturesque New England town.

A Sampling of Shops
Be sure to see Antiques & Elderly Things, a small mom-and-pop store located at 199 Western Avenue on the outskirts of town. At first, the cluttered shop may seem to house a mish-mash of items that are barely worth a second glance. Dig a little deeper, though, and you will unearth some wonderful pieces of Americana.

Shopkeeper Bob Cronin, who runs the store with his wife Jen (although he asserts that she is the one in charge) admits to having a weakness for what he calls "memorabilia." With little prompting (Bob appears to be full of stories and anecdotes he is just itching to tell the next shopper through the door), he will show you the store's collection of magic lanterns. These gizmos, which ran on candlelight and were popular before photography became common, told children stories through series of hand-painted slides. Other interesting items include an old trolley car fare box ($225) and a hand-operated doohickey that inserted pennies into cigarette packs in the days when vending machines owed their patrons change on two dimes ($125). The Cronins also have collections of scales and hunting rifles.

On the other end of the spectrum (and the other end of town) is Joshua's Corner, a multi-dealer shop with an eclectic mix of furniture and collectibles. The atmosphere here is more professional but less friendly than independently owned stores, and most smaller items are glass-encased. We found Joshua's interesting for its clothing selection, which includes a flowered satin waist corset from the mid-1800s ($250). Upstairs is a small but varied collection of furniture and early American items, such as a 19th century ladderback rocker.

Serious shoppers looking for furniture should try some of the stores closer to the center of town. For example, Golden Egg Antiques and Fine Art, run by Carol and Tom Bongiorno, specializes in American and European art and European furniture. Many of the items are "big-ticket" -- one of Tom's favorites is a Jerome Elwell painting with a price tag of $12,000. Though such items are certainly out of many visitors' price range, it may be worth visiting the Golden Egg, if for no other reason than "to see something you've never seen before." (We overheard a woman making this comment to her friend as they ogled a turn-of-the century Venetian desk.)

Caveat Emptor
According to Martha, a Worcester native and five-year Essex resident who works in town, antique shops in Essex are divided into two categories: expensive or junk-filled. Although we are not as quick to rule out the chance of finding a treasure among the ruins, we do agree with Martha's warning to the inexperienced antiquer.

The more expensive shops are lovely to walk through but offer little for the casual shopper. Others, which can appear to be the product of numerous attic cleanings, sell a lot of dusty knickknacks but may have something perfect for an Essex souvenir. Generally, if you are not sure of the worth of an item, don't be afraid to ask questions. If you are not satisfied with the answers, we recommend you walk away. Common sense will tell you the difference between a reputable antique dealer and the flea-market vendor.

When to Go
Like many activities in New England, time in Essex is best spent in comfortable weather. Although your actual antiquing is done (for the most part) indoors, you will want to enjoy the wonderful New England scenery and view of Essex River. Therefore, visitors to Essex will probably get the most of their trip on a sunny spring, summer or fall day.

Since most shops are open during what one dealer loosely referred to as "afternoon," shoppers should plan to arrive in Essex by 1 PM to fit in as many stores as possible. The stores typically close at 5 PM. The recommended amount of time to spend at the shops in Essex is obviously dependent on your level of interest in antiques, although you can get a good taste of Essex's antique offerings in an afternoon.

Dining and Lodging Recommendations
What we found, however, is that the time goes by quickly if you include leisurely strolls in between each cluster of stores and a pit stop in one the restaurants that flank Main Street. Claiming to be the birthplace of the fried clam, Essex offers fresh seafood at a number of dining venues. Ending your day in town can be done among the locals at Woodman's, where you will find a basic fried seafood menu and a casual, take-out/eat-in atmosphere. Across the street, the Conomo Cafe‚ offers elegant, friendly but more formal dining with non-traditional seafood entrees ranging in price to about $20.

Serious antique collectors visiting the Boston area and planning a drive to Essex should consider spending an entire weekend in town, bunking at one of Essex's nearby accommodations. Two places to stay right in the thick of antique row are the Essex River House Motel and the George Fuller House. The latter, a small bed and breakfast with seven antique-furnished guest rooms, offers a true New England feel.

Getting There
If you are making a day trip from Boston, we highly recommend that you rent a car to visit Essex. Although the MBTA Commuter Rail does have service to the North Shore, a car will allow you to easily navigate the town and surrounding areas. From the city, follow Route 93N to Route 128N toward Gloucester. The local area is best seen by taking the first Essex exit, which leads you on a ten-minute drive through Beverly, Wenham and Hamilton on scenic Route 22 North.

You will pass Meadowbrook Farms, which sells fresh produce, pastries and flowers (see the related article for tips on visiting other farms), and The Junction homemade ice cream parlor before reaching the Essex border.

Events and Attractions in Essex and Nearby
You may want to plan a trip to Essex around one of the town's local events, including the food and wine reception called "Taste of Essex" in early May, the Essex Shipyard Festival in mid-May, the Wildlife Art Festival in the last weekend of August, or the Essex Clamfest on the second Saturday in October. For more information, visit the Essex Division of the Cape Ann Chamber of Commerce's web site.

While you are in town, also consider taking one of the Essex River Cruises which leave daily from the Essex Marina. The area also offers beautiful beaches, such as Crane's Beach in Ipswich, whale watching cruises in Gloucester, and the witch museum in nearby Salem.

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