Summary: See curios from around the world brought home by intrepid seafarers during Salem's trading heyday and visit historic homes that capture the flavor of life in Salem throughout the centuries.

Taking a stroll through the Peabody Essex Museum is like browsing in your great-grandfather's attic -- assuming he was a 19th-century sea captain whose travels took him around the world!

This museum was created in 1992 from the merger of two distinctly different museum collections: the Peabody Museum, which was founded in 1799 by members of the East India Marine Society as a repository for curios from decades of international seafaring, and the Essex Institute, which was founded in 1821 to preserve and protect the history of Essex County, including its architectural heritage.

These collections are so enormous (2.4 million works of art and culture at last count, housed in 24 historic buildings, including 4 National Historic Landmarks and 5 National Register buildings) that you cannot begin to see them all in a single day. Still, if you plan well, you should be able to get a good sense of what these fascinating museums offers in a single afternoon.

Imported Treasures
We recommend that you begin with the maritime collections on the first floor. The long gallery closest to the main desk is lined with beautifully-crafted wood display cases which showcase foreign treasures from Salem's heyday in international trade (which began just after the American Revolution and lasted until about 1850).

Spices, richly colored silks and cottons, ivory, jewelry, coffee, exotic woods, and ceramics imported from the Far East and Africa are displayed along with sailors' sketchbooks and account-books of the period. We especially enjoyed the spectacular collection of Japanese and Chinese porcelain, silver and gold, which are in galleries situated around a lush Oriental garden courtyard. And don't miss the carved ivory baskets on the second floor; they are so intricate and delicate, it looks as though a single breath could destroy them!

Those with an interest in boats should check out the museum's extensive collection of marine art. These galleries, which are adjacent to the displays of imported treasures, are a boat lover's paradise!

American Decorative Art
The galleries in the former Essex Institute) contain period rooms, furniture and silver, and a fascinating collection of antique toys.

Historic Homes
The Peabody Essex also owns six historic homes in the neighborhood, four of which are furnished and open to the public during the summer months. It is best to check ahead for tour availability. None of the houses is air-conditioned, so don't pick the hottest day of the summer to see this part of the museum's collection.

From the dark, cramped John Ward House of 1690, built when life in Salem was difficult and uncertain, to the splendor and elegance of the Gardner-Pingree House, built in 1804 during Salem's trading heyday, these buildings provide an excellent way to visualize life in a different time and place. The volunteer tour guides are extremely knowledgeable about the history and use of the different furnishings in each of the settings.

Hours and Fees
For museum hours, admission fees and other details, visit the museum's web site.

How to Get There
To reach the Peabody Essex Museum from Boston, take Route 128 east to Exit 25A (Route 114 east). From there, take Route 107 (Bridge Street) east 2 blocks to St. Peter's Street. At the end of St. Peter's Street, turn left on Brown Street, and take the immediate right on Liberty Street. Parking is available at the garage on the right or at the surface lot just past the museum on the left.

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