The cell block of a former police station in the City of Boston might seem an unlikely place for the best of Southern home cooking, but don't let it worry you. You can arrive with a giant appetite, and not much money, and you'll end up with lots more than bread and water.

M&M Ribs is located in the basement of the former Police Station 11 in the Fields Corner section of Boston. Fields Corner was a blighted, dangerous place not too long ago, but times are changing. Recent improvements to the sidewalks and roadways, an influx of new businesses, and facelifts to the old commercial buildings are bringing more and more people back to this neighborhood hub. Nonetheless, we would remind you to always exercise caution whenever you are in an unfamiliar area.

The Decor
Carved out of a warren of tiny jail cells, the restaurant has handsome brick walls and details that were built in a time when architectural beauty was for everyone, even prisoners! When you add soft lighting, modern woodwork and soulful gospel music, all combine to create a series of tiny semi-private cells which make you feel as though you are dining in solitary splendor. Massive granite doorways, and vestiges of the wrought iron bars send the hint that you'd better behave, or else!

The Menu
But don't spend your time here worrying about escape; instead concentrate on eating and enjoy your stay. M&M Ribs offers sandwiches, ribs, chicken, pork and fish dinners, or BBQ a la carte. Or, visit on a Sunday, when the buffet table fairly groans with an abundance of delicacies, some that are on the menu and some that aren't.

We did just that on a recent visit. We sampled the slow cooked BBQ pork ribs (moist & tender inside, crisp & spicy outside) and delicious BBQ chicken breasts (so perfectly prepared the meat fell off the bone). Then we tried a few of the more authentic soul food dishes. Oxtails and pig's feet are not on this insider's list of everyday foods, but in the spirit of adventure, we tried them all. And we were glad we did! The oxtails were served in a brown/red wine gravy and were succulent and flavorful (they tasted like boeuf bourguignonne!) The pig's feet were a different experience. They were very fatty (we never found any meat) but to M&M's credit, the sauce was quite tasty.

M&M deserves special mention for the side dishes. The potato salad and cole slaw are sweet but perfectly piquant; the black-eyed peas have a delightful smoky flavor; the collard greens are an unexpected treat; and the yams, simmered with spices and orange juice, are out of this world! The only thing we would change was the homemade macaroni and cheese - a bit too salty for our tastes.

After a single trip through the buffet line (okay, maybe we had seconds on the yams), we had no room for coffee or dessert. But we have it on good authority that the sweet potato pie is not to be missed.

Logistics
There is a small parking lot beside the building, and there is also on-street parking. M&M Ribs is open Thursday through Saturday 11 AM to 10 PM; Sunday 1 to 8 PM.

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