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Exploring
the Upper East Side
NEIGHBORHOOD
CHARACTER
For some downtown types, the
Upper East Side might as well be another
planet. Given the abundance of deluxe
hi-risers, swanky boutiques and affluent
professionals, the area screams
yuppiedom.
Indeed, the city's
"Silk Stocking District," --
roughly 60th to 96th Streets, from 5th
Avenue to the East River -- is one of New
York's poshest neighborhoods. Located
here are upscale clothing emporiums like
Barney's, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein;
exclusive private schools like Dalton;
the auction houses of Christie's and
Sotheby's; even the mayor's official
residence, Gracie Mansion.
Compared to other areas of
Manhattan, the streets are clean, the
crime rate low, the homeless population
minimal, and the overall atmosphere --
some would contend -- somewhat stiff.
It's true, the Upper East
Side is no haven for "artsy"
types. You're more likely to come across
Chanel, Gucci and Louis Vuitton here than
purple hair, combat boots and multiple
body piercing. By and large, the
community is conservative and
residential, inhabited by families and
young professionals.
Along Fifth Avenue you'll
find mansions formerly owned by
turn-of-the-century industrialists and
philanthropists. Along side them,
majestic apartment buildings which are
now, and have always been, the domain of
the super rich. (Jackie Onasis lived
here). In fact, all real estate west of
Lexington Avenue is the province of the
incredibly well-to-do -- or their
trust-funders.
Despite the Upper East
Side's affluence, you don't have to be
filthy rich to live here. That's because
many apartments east of Lexington Avenue,
(3rd, 2nd, 1st, York and East End
Avenues), are comparable in price to
other parts of Manhattan. Sandwiched
between the luxury doorman buildings are
older, less glamorous dwellings suitable
for singles and recent college grads. For
roughly $2000 a month, a small studio
apartment can be yours.
While the avenues running
north and south are usually bustling with
commerce and traffic, most Upper East
Side cross streets are tree-lined and
serene. Further east, around York and
East End Avenues, it's even quainter. But
the hike to the subway several blocks
away on Lexington Avenue can be brutal on
cold, wintry days.
PLACES TO GO, THINGS
TO DO
There are so many
restaurants and bars dotting 1st, 2nd and
3rd Avenues, one wonders how they all
stay in business. Well, many don't. But
as soon as one place closes down, another
one replaces it. There are sports bars,
singles bars, coffee
bars, cigar bars and
every ethnic food imaginable. While we
can't list them all, here are a few
places that add "flavor" to the
neighborhood:
Food &
Restaurants
In the first half
of the 20th century, Yorkville, the
northeast section of the Upper East Side,
was home to thousands of German,
Hungarian and Czechoslovakian immigrants.
Today, the last vestiges of this once
thriving community can be experienced at
a few remaining old-world restaurants
like the Heidelberg
Restaurant
(1648 Second Avenue at 86th Street) and
grocery stores such as Shaller &
Weber (2nd Avenue and 86th St.).
Had enough of the
Upper East Side's pretentiousness? Try
Dallas BBQ (3rd Avenue and 75th Street),
the antithesis of some of the area's
snooty establishments. This cavernous
restaurant specializes in
stick-to-your-ribs barbecue chicken
dinners at impossibly cheap prices --
like the $9.95 early-bird special for
two. How do they do it? Volume is our
guess. The place is always packed.
If you've got the
kids with you, Fetch
(1649 Third Ave. at 92nd St.) or the Barking Dog
(1678 Third Ave. at 94th St.) are good
child-friendly spots, with a dog-theme
that will entertain the kids and food
tasty enough to satisfy all but the most
finicky gourmand.
Live
Music, Dancing and Entertainment
Without a major
club presence, the Upper East Side is not
a big draw for the bridge & tunnel
crowd, which is just fine with many in
the community. If you're into the club
scene, you'll have to head downtown where
nightclubs and live music are in full
swing.
For those with a taste for
sophistication, dress up for an evening
out with legendary lounge singer Bobby
Short at the Cafe Carlyle in the Carlyle
Hotel, (76th Street and Madison). At
about $60 per person, it won't come
cheap. For all the atmosphere at a
fraction of the cost, cross the hall to
Bemelmans Bar, where for a cover of just
$10, you can enjoy a night of cocktails
and piano music.
For a night of laughs, try
The Comic Strip (1568 2nd Avenue at 82nd
Street), and Dangerfield's (1118 First
Avenue at 61st Street). Catch
up-and-coming comics at see where some of
today's top stars got their start. Cover
charges and drink minimums vary depending
on the night of the week.
Culture
One of the major
cultural landmarks on the Upper East Side
is the 92nd Street YMHA on Lexington
Avenue. More than just a gym, the
"Y" is famous for its lectures,
seminars, concerts, walking tours,
after-school programs and adult education
classes. Learn a language, a musical
instrument, even how to flirt. Or listen
to luminaries such as Barbara Walters,
Leslie Stahl, Mario Cuomo and Clint
Eastwood -- all of whom have spoken at
the "Y."
The Upper East Side is also
home to some of the world's most
magnificent museums. Among them are the Guggenheim,
the Whitney,
the Frick
Collection,
the Cooper
Hewitt and the Jewish
Museum. But the grandest
of them all is the Metropolitan
Museum of Art
(1000 Fifth Avenue at 82nd Street) which
occupies 1.4 million square feet of floor
space -- don't even think of trying to
see it all in a day. Outside the museum,
you'll find a vibrant street scene
consisting of street performers,
musicians and local artisans peddling
paintings and crafts. The Met's sprawling
steps are also a great place to rest
weary feet and engage in some serious
people-watching.
NOTEWORTHY IN THE
NEIGHBORHOOD
Carl Schurz Park (off East
End Avenue from 84th to 90th Streets) --
With its wide promenade overlooking the
East River, Carl Schurz Park is a
delightful neighborhood oasis. Let your
pooch play in the dog run, shoot some
hoops in the playground, or pack a picnic
and listen to free jazz every Wednesday
evening during the summer. Gracie Mansion
is just steps away, as is the wonderful
promenade along the East River, where you
can relax on a bench and watch the boats
go by.
Dylan's Candy Bar (1011 3rd
Avenue at 60th Street), Manhattan's
biggest candy store, is a child's dream
and worth a visit for anyone with a sweet
tooth. With two levels and more than
5,000 types of confections, you are
guaranteed to find a sweet something to
make you smile.
TRANSPORTATION
Buses get stuck in traffic
and cabs are expensive, making the
subway, at $2 a ride, the best way to get
around the Upper East Side. The local #6
trains makes stops every ten blocks or so
along Lexington Avenue, and like the
express #4 and #5 trains which also run
along Lexington Avenue, are usually
reliable and run often, especially during
rush hours.
by Mitch Lemus
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