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        Morris-Jumel Mansion
65 Jumel Terrace (between West 160th and 162nd Streets)
Manhattan
(212) 923-8008

Summary: A house with a colorful history, featuring furnishings from Colonial, Revolutionary, Federal and American Empire eras. George Washington slept here; Vice President Aaron Burr lived here; and what was once Napolean's bed remains on display.

The Morris-Jumel Mansion is the oldest remaining house in Manhattan. It was built in 1765 as a summer house for British Colonel Roger Morris and his wife. At the outbreak of the Revolutionary War, the house was seized by Revolutionary forces and used as the headquarters of General George Washington after his initial retreat from lower Manhattan. After the war, the house was used as a roadside tavern.

In 1810, it was purchased by French immigrant Stephen Jumel who lived there with his wife, Eliza Bowen. After her husband died in 1832, Eliza married former Vice President Aaron Burr, supposedly for his stature and he supposedly for her wealth. The marriage lasted three years, ending in divorce in 1836.

Eliza travelled in France extensively and moved in Napoleonic circles. In fact, she offered Napoleon safe passage to New York after his defeat at Waterloo (he declined the offer). But while she was not able to bring Napoleon to America, she was able to bring back many French antiques, some of which were reportedly Napoleon's own belongings. Some of these items are now on display in the house.

What To See
Ask the manager to show you the five minute documentary on the Morris-Jumel Mansion when you arrive. It is interesting and gives you an idea of the house's history and architectural style.

Be sure also to read the plaques in each room which describe the significance of each room's furnishings. Although you will not be able to walk around the rooms, you can get a good look at each room's contents (mostly eighteenth and nineteenth century furniture) by stepping in as far as the divider will permit.

Eliza Jumel
The most interesting room in the house is Eliza Jumel's bed chamber and adjoining dressing room. Considered the wealthiest American woman of her time, she also happens to be the most interesting figure attached to this house.

Many of Eliza's own belongings and some of the most "royal" pieces she had in her furniture and antique collection are on display. Her bed belonged to Napoleon himself at one time and was rumored to have been the bed in which he slept while he was First Consul of France.

Eliza's bedroom also contains one of Napoleon's "dolphin" chairs and the slipper chairs of Queen Hortense of the Netherlands, daughter of Empress Josephine and mother of Napoleon III.

Washington And Burr, Too
Our first president and our third vice president had their own rooms at the Morris-Jumel house, too. Across the hall from Eliza's bed chamber is Aaron Burr's, and at the far end of the second floor hall is Washington's office. Both rooms have been restored to resemble what they would have looked like while these men used them.

Disappointments
Although the Morris-Jumel Mansion has a fascinating history, is on the National Register of Historic Places, and is a New York City landmark, we found that its present state does not live up to its past. Several factors in particular disappointed us:

  • There are no tours of the house, a fact which surprised us immensely. In all fairness, the manager is available to answer any questions you may have. But a tour given by a knowledgeable guide would have made our trip a lot more worthwhile.
  • We were disappointed by the lack of original furniture and decorations in the house. In fact much of what you will see does not even belong to the Morris-Jumel house, and is merely on loan from other institutions, such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art. While we realize it is often difficult to track down original furnishings, we believe it is only fair to warn you that you will not see the house as it was 200 years ago.
  • Frankly, we had expected a nicer setting. Some attention has been given to the garden, but the lawns needed to be mowed and the walkways needed maintenance. And although George Washington and Roger Morris may have had a beautiful view of the Hudson, the Harlem River, and even Staten Island, those views are completely gone now. In fact, though the mansion is nearly on top of the Hudson River, you will only be able to catch a small glimpse of it through the trees and large buildings that lay in between.

Who Should Go
There are a few interesting facts to learn at the Morris-Jumel Mansion, and it is nice to be able to say that you have seen one of Napoleon's beds and one of the places from which Washington commanded his army during the Revolutionary War.

Moreover, those with an interest in architecture may enjoy seeing the oldest octagonal room in the U.S. and exploring the type of building that influenced eighteenth century Georgian architecture. You may also be interested in viewing the "Jumel Wings" which decorate the archways of the first floor and hearing about the controversy that surrounded them for a time. But if you do not have a deep interest in architectural history, we suggest that you go to some of the larger and more centrally located historical museums in Manhattan.

How To Get There
By subway, take the B (weekdays) or C (weekends) train to 163rd Street and walk down St. Nicholas Avenue to 162nd Street. Walk east one block until you come to Jumel Terrace and take a right. The mansion is on your left.

By bus, take the M2 to 160th St. and Edgecombe Avenue and walk uphill one block; take the M3 or M18 to 160th St. and St. Nicholas Avenue; or take the M101 to 160th Street and Amsterdam Avenue.

By car from the East Side, take the FDR Drive north to the Harlem River Drive. Exit onto 135th Street, turn right on St. Nicholas Avenue, take another right onto 160th Street and drive one block before taking a left onto Jumel Terrace. From the West Side, take Henry Hudson Parkway north. Exit onto 158th Street, turn left onto St. Nicholas Avenue, turn right onto 160th Street and continue for one block before taking a left onto Jumel Terrace. Parking is available on Jumel Terrace.

by Andrew Roche

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